How to choose a pocket square? Analyzing types of pocket squares
A 100% silk pocket square and a 100% linen pocket square are the two main types of pocket squares. In this article, we will discuss not only these types but also the so-called natural blend pocket squares. We will also present how to choose a pocket square to match the rest of your outfit by analyzing different color combinations.
In Summary: Here’s What You’ll Learn from the Article:
- What you need to know about a white linen pocket square.
- What characterizes 100% silk pocket squares and why the pattern matters.
- What natural blend pocket squares are and how to choose them based on the season.
- How to select a pocket square that matches your tie.
- Which pocket squares work best with popular suit colors—gray, blue, and black.
We will also show you specific models of men's pocket squares along with a discussion on which styles they pair best with.
The Most Universal Choice - A White Linen Pocket Square with or without a Border (A Must-Have in Your Wardrobe)
The most formal option is a white linen pocket square, and we recommend having at least one in your wardrobe. It can be completely white or feature a colorful border. What color should you choose for the border? Select a tie that you love the most and match the border color to it. For example, if you feel best in a classic burgundy tie, opt for a white pocket square with a burgundy border that complements it. If your favorite tie features a dominant blue/navy color, then a pocket square with a blue border will work best—this creates a universal combination that will always make you look good.
Check out our collection: white linen pocket squares
The Vividness of Colors: Silk Pocket Squares
Silk is an excellent medium for colors—they appear incredibly vibrant on it. This allows for the creation of the most beautiful patterns on printed silk, with quality and color schemes that leave a significant impression. Just take a look at these patterns and colors of pocket squares:
Browse classic silk pocket squares and limited edition silk pocket squares.
Did You Know...
Sometimes we encounter concerns that while the patterns and colors of pocket squares are stunning, they won’t be visible once the pocket square is folded—only a small piece will be sticking out of the breast pocket. This is why it’s important to explain how this works. Men's pocket squares are similar to the lining of a blazer or men’s suspenders hidden beneath a jacket; they’re either not visible at all or only partially visible at times.
What does this mean? The patterns on the pocket square are primarily for you. The design should reflect your preferences—it might symbolize something personal, such as an interest in art if the pocket square features an artistic pattern.
Natural Blend Pocket Squares
Natural blend pocket squares allow you to create a style that perfectly matches the season and the visual weight of your other garments. They are made from a combination of silk and another material, such as wool (a great option for winter) or cotton or linen (ideal for summer). Moreover, this blend makes the pocket square less shiny, giving it a more natural appearance.
On the other hand, silk pocket squares are suitable for year-round wear—they always look good and stand out. Below, we will further explore this topic by discussing the main principles for choosing pocket squares.
How to Choose a Pocket Square?
Accessories like pocket squares and ties should complement each other rather than compete. What are the key principles for selecting a pocket square? Let’s analyze!
Pocket Square Matched to the Tie
The basic rule is quite simple: the colors on the pocket square should coordinate with the colors of the other elements in your outfit, especially the tie. If you have a blue tie, choose a pocket square that also includes that color or its shades.
To check if a certain color pairs well with another, you can refer to guidelines on color combinations.
Remember that a pocket square, once folded, is just a small piece that sticks out of the breast pocket. Therefore, one pocket square can perfectly match various tie colors depending on how you fold it and which color you choose to emphasize.
Pocket Square Matched to the Season
In summer, if the overall look is less formal—like business casual—it's worth showing through your accessories that they are suited to the whole ensemble: light and airy. Pay attention to the “optical weight” of pocket squares. A natural blend of cotton and silk is an ideal choice for summer outfits, as the cotton adds a light, breezy look. Similarly, a natural blend made from linen and silk is also a good option for warm months.
For winter, you might opt for natural blend pocket squares made from silk and wool, as wool has a heavier optical weight and pairs well with other heavier garments, like a wool blazer.
If you have a year-round suit, we recommend classic 100% silk pocket squares.
Pocket Square Matched to the Occasion
We already mentioned that a white linen pocket square is appropriate for formal occasions—weddings, funerals, important ceremonies, or outings in a black suit to the theater or opera. When planning your outfit, think about how formal the occasion is and whether you want understated accessories or something more eye-catching.
For example, if you work in a creative profession and are attending a company event, you might want to express your creativity and unique style with an original, vividly colored pocket square and tie.
Conversely, if you need a pocket square for work in a conservative setting like a bank, it’s best to stick with white linen or more muted-colored silk options.
Pocket Square Matched to Your Style
Most importantly, the pocket square should appeal to you. So it’s crucial to choose patterns and colors that resonate with your personal style.
Specific Suggestions
The solutions outlined below relate to specific suit colors, assuming you’ll be wearing a classic white shirt (in other words, a blank canvas where you can “paint” with colorful accessories). If your shirt is colorful, remember to consider its hues when planning your style.
What Pocket Square Goes with a Gray Suit?
Gray is a neutral color that allows for a variety of options when choosing a men’s pocket square and tie. It's hard to find a color that doesn’t match gray. So, let’s take a look at your tie. You have a gray suit and a navy tie. For example, the silk pocket square below works well because it includes navy in its design. Additionally, keep in mind that if you fold the pocket square so that the right bottom corner is visible from the breast pocket, it will work perfectly with both pink and orange ties, as those colors will be visible on the pocket square:
What Pocket Square Goes with a Navy Suit?
First, ask yourself in what circumstances you will be wearing the navy suit. Almost any silk pocket square will work, as it’s hard to find colors that clash with this shade. So, decide again based on your tie. For example, if you have a navy suit and a green tie, a pocket square that features both green and any shade of blue will be a good match. An example of such a pocket square could be this silk one:
What Pocket Square Goes with a Black Suit?
Since we consider the black suit to be reserved for formal events, both somber occasions like funerals and joyful ones like theater performances, the first choice is a white linen pocket square (the most formal option). However, if you’re wearing a black suit for a less formal occasion, such as an evening gathering at an elegant bar, you might opt for yellow accessories. The black-and-yellow combination occurs in nature, for example, with bees—definitely a good idea to draw inspiration from nature. In this case, you would wear a black suit, black shoes, and a black shirt, paired with a yellow tie and a pocket square featuring yellow elements, such as the one on the right.
Many colors complement black, but always remember to consider the occasion and its level of formality. Another great idea is a black suit, white shirt, black tie, and white pocket square—simple yet excellent for formal occasions.
Can You Build an Outfit Around a Pocket Square Instead of a Tie?
We mentioned that it's easiest to match the color of the pocket square to the color of the tie. However, this can be reversed. How does that work? Let's say you've bought a pocket square that you really like and absolutely want to wear it, such as the natural blend pocket square shown below, which is perfect for summer:
You can now analyze its color scheme and decide on either a blue or brown tie. However, we recommend matching the pocket square to the tie, rather than the other way around, because the tie is more visible (about 20-30 cm compared to 15-3 cm for the pocket square) and is therefore somewhat more important in the overall styling. Additionally, it’s important to remember that the pocket square should not distract or draw attention away from your face. If it does, and the accessories attract too much attention, it will be harder for your conversation partner to focus. Men's accessories should blend into the overall look and not demand attention. If you choose to forgo the tie, any pocket square will work well with gray and navy suits (along with a white shirt).
How to Choose a Pocket Square? An Overview of Pocket Square Types
You now know how to select a pocket square to look attractive. Most of the work here relies on understanding color psychology and the rules of color matching. Therefore, if you still have doubts, we recommend checking out the previously mentioned article: RULES FOR COMBINING PATTERNS AND COLORS. 11 RULES AND COLOR PSYCHOLOGY.
